Henna and Swan

As much as I enjoyed my time with my wonderful companions, I have had an amazing day today on my own! Of course, as usual, I had a big adventure this evening on my way to the Henna Cafe. There is no way I can adequately explain the confusing nature of the roads here -- to the extent they can be called roads. Many of them date back many centuries, when there was no need for them to be wide. On the oldest roads, particularly those in Fez, still today materials are carried in and out by donkeys. In Marrakesh, most of the roads are quite as narrow, but they are an indecipherable maze. Tonight I probably scared an old woman half to death as I followed her right to her door, at the end of a street; I was a bit lost and thought she was going out of the medina, as I was trying to do. I was following rather closely, and when she got to her door she turned around and started to give me a sharp look but softened when she could see I was obviously confused. I said just one word, in a soft and probably pathetic voice: taxi. She pointed the way, but even with her direction I found myself at the end of another street. (They are similar to alleys but more narrow, with uneven cobbled streets.) This time I saw a sign for a hammam at the end, and I rapped on the door. I waited and when there was no answer, I walked away. After I had taken a few steps, I heard the door open. A man came out who spoke no English, and even though the way he directed me to the taxis was clearly just through his shop on the other side, he kept repeating to "go to building" and gesturing to turn right. I asked if I could cut through and tried to gesture, but either he didn't understand or he didn't want to let me in.

I was somewhat lost on the way in as well but less concerned because the rain had stopped and there was more daylight. As I left, it was very dark inside the narrow passageways and the rain was pouring down, along with thunder and lightning. Nevertheless, eventually I found my way out -- and passed by the Cafe again. If I had turned right instead of left when I exited, I would have been at the taxi area at least fifteen minutes earlier. As usual, when I find myself in situations like that, I remember that I have been in -- and out of -- them before and I think about how I'll tell the story when I'm back to safety and comfort. No one bothered me, although some of the men I passed earlier in the day had yelled, "Lalla! Lalla!" at me and waved. Two who pointed me to the Cafe when I finally found the right street called after me, "I love you!" So here was what the fuss was all about. It will probably flake off and not be as dark as I'd like -- the rain didn't do it any favors -- but even so the time I spent in the cafe (where I ran into a young woman who went to the same high school I did in Maryland!) was wonderfully pleasant, and the whole experience -- two henna tattoos, a pot of tea, a plate of cookies, and all the warm vibes I could soak up in two hours -- cost 260 dirham, just under $26.00 U.S.

When I returned to the hotel (I had walked over but I rode back), the lovely lady who had greeted me with kisses when I arrived was at the desk and wanted to admire my "ink". She came from behind the desk to offer more hugs and kisses and a final farewell, handing me her business card so we could keep in touch and she could personally handle my reservation if/when I return. A few minutes after I went to my room, a young man came to turn down the bed. Instead of rose petals, he made this for me. Such a lovely end to a beautiful day and an amazing trip.